Just a Couple of Hours from the South Bay, This Spa and Wellness Retreat Will Transport You to Pastoral Provence

French connection.

  • Category
    Travel
  • Written by
    Darren Elms

I still remember the first time I visited Cal-a-Vie Health Spa, just north of San Diego in Vista. How did I pass through Orange County and somehow end up in rural France? Hills soaked in purple lavender … the scent of orange blossoms at every turn … rooms filled with old-world antiques. It’s as if I traveled 5,000 miles, sans jet lag.

But that’s exactly what a visit to this bucolic retreat feels like—a transportive experience for all the senses. The pure beauty of the property, with historic structures, fountains and colorful gardens, would be enough to instantly reset your mood for the experience to come. But once you pepper in the fitness, spa, programs and delightful cuisine, the bliss is sure to linger long after.

Cal-a-Vie debuted four decades ago when owners Terri and John Havens created a retreat that matched their passions for antiques, French travel and a healthy lifestyle. The couple keep a home overlooking the spa grounds and often blend in among the small group of visitors who reserve a three-, four- or seven-night stay. Each package includes meals, treatments at the award-winning spa and access to an evolving menu of fitness classes.

A typical day at Cal-a-Vie starts with a hike or walk, depending on how ambitious you desire your morning to be. And while I think of myself as being in pretty good shape, it’s humbling to watch a pack of octogenarians breeze by while ascending a summit. Cal-a-Vie enjoys a loyal—and reliably fit—clientele. But do not fear if you’re more comfortable in the back of the pack. Plenty of us just took our sweet time, absorbing the morning air and scenery at our leisure.

After a healthy breakfast (more on the dining in a bit), it’s time to sweat some more. Each day you’ll receive a list of classes and activities to choose from. Upon arrival at the resort, your advisor in the scheduling office will take some time to review the fitness journey that best matches your goals and expectations.

This could include yoga or breathing classes, TRX, spinning, boxing and Pilates, to name a few. If you’re more of a water animal, the aquatics offerings at one of the two swimming pools will satisfy your H2O hankerings. For those seeking soul rejuvenation, sound baths and meditation put mindfulness front and center. Mellow activities like chakra bracelet-making or helpful lectures about gut health and nutrition also help break up the day.

Perhaps the best place to chill out is the spa bath house. By the afternoon, many guests will wander in wearing their robes for a treatment, from soothing massages to nourishing facials and body treatments. There’s really no bad choice here. Just be sure to take a dip in the cold plunge just outside the spa lobby for the full experience. New activities are on the horizon with the addition of a magnesium pool and infrared sauna next year.

Another place to connect with fellow guests is at meals. When good weather permits, which is often, diners enjoy breakfast and lunch on the patio. Each meal is served with different place settings and linens each day, and guests are encouraged to mix it up and join different tables at each sitting.

The meals are not only beautifully prepared and presented but also quite delicious. A true farm-to-table experience, most of the ingredients you’ll enjoy come from local suppliers and are hand-selected by the culinary team.

L’Orangerie hosts a cooking demonstration where you can learn firsthand some of the secrets behind the chef’s most popular recipes. And if you’re lucky, you may get to sample one of Cal-a-Vie’s signature wines at your candlelit dinner.

On this last trip, we had the pleasure of visiting the Sky Observatory, featuring eight flat-screen TVs and a state-of-the-art Takahashi telescope, allowing guests to peer deep into the cosmos with the help of our guest presenter. We also got a view of things to come at Cal-a-Vie as it celebrates 40 years in 2025—including three new villas for small-group travelers and a new Chateau Cal-a-Vie tasting room debuting in 2026.

As the resort continues to evolve and grow, so do the lucky guests who spend time in this little piece of Provence. See for yourself what a week in the country can do for your body and soul. No passport required.

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